Eat at Bar Nestor, San Sebastian, Spain

Queue on a narrow Old Town street, claim one of the scarce tortilla portions and then stand at the bar for food pared down to a handful of ingredients. Bar Néstor built its reputation on doing very little and doing it with fierce consistency: tortilla, ripe tomato, Gernika peppers and txuleta beef. Only two tortillas are normally made each day, one for lunch and one for dinner, so securing a slice has become part of the ritual. The tomato arrives simply dressed so its quality is exposed, while the large steak is cooked, sliced and shared. This is Basque bar eating at close quarters rather than a long tasting-menu performance. Check current opening arrangements and arrive well before service if the tortilla matters; names are taken for limited portions and late returns can lose their slice. Go with another person if you want to share the txuleta, expect to stand and have a second pintxo plan nearby if the queue defeats you. Add this to your list for a meal where scarcity is real and simplicity has nowhere to hide.