Eat tripe

Eat tripe

Give tripe enough time and it changes from something confronting into something built for sauce. Honeycomb, blanket and book tripe come from different parts of a ruminant stomach, each carrying broth and spice through a springy texture that has fed cooks across continents. Italy has lampredotto and trippa alla romana; Mexico has menudo; Vietnamese phở may include thin slices; Chinese dim sum serves braised beef tripe. These dishes grew from using the whole animal and from techniques that turn inexpensive, firm offal into sustaining food. The seasoning tells you as much about the place as the ingredient does. Try tripe in a restaurant known for the particular dish rather than ordering it as a random challenge. Ask which style is being served and whether the texture is soft, crisped or deliberately chewy. At home, buy cleaned tripe and follow a tested recipe because preparation can be lengthy. Add this to your list for a food whose appeal arrives through craft, context and a second bite.

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